Tuesday, 22 March 2016

Chanel's new global creative makeup and colour designer


| Lucia Pica |

Makeup artist Lucia Pica, in a Chanel jacket and a Margaret Howell scarf.
Photographed by Daniel Jackson, Vogue, September 2015
'With her singular beauty vision, the makeup artist Lucia Pica is bringing a cool new attitude to Chanel.'

The Italian makeup artist has been named Chanel's new global creative makeup and color designer, a new position that entails developing products in conjunction with the makeup studio in Paris. It's not Pica's first time working with Chanel: she created the looks for its most recent Rouge Allure, fall and holiday campaigns. And while those hit the more classic end of the beauty spectrum, her bolder, more graphic work for i-D and House of Holland has us excited to see what else she's capable of.
Bold pops of color are her thing, and Pica—who will be responsible for conceptualizing and developing Chanel’s cosmetics—represents something of a brave move for the French luxury house. She thinks nothing of applying glossy acid orange to lips, dusting lids in canary yellow ombréd-out to sooty black, or artistically painting a single stroke of Wite-Out white just below brows with the style of an Abstract Expressionist. But that’s not all she can do; Pica can just as skillfully turn her hand to a natural no-makeup makeup look. It’s a versatility honed on set with photographers Mario Testino, Mikael Jansson, Alasdair McLellan, and Willy Vanderperre, and backstage at shows like Roksanda and Peter Pilotto. She’s also behind Chanel’s beauty campaigns, making up the faces of Keira Knightley and the model Sigrid Agren.

“Coco Chanel was such a punk in the way that she approached style and feminism,” Pica continues. “She gave power to women, made it about how we wanted to look and not about dressing to please others. She pioneered that, and it couldn’t have been easy.” The heavy-fringed brunette pauses before adding, “Yes—I’m reading a lot of her biographies. . . . ”

Though Pica’s first full collection for Chanel won’t launch until late 2016, she is already clear on one thing: “I want the lineup to be modern and very straightforward. I want it to be super now, precise, and strong.” In preparation, she has been spending her time creating mood boards, gathering visuals that inspire her. Her references are broad: Art Deco postcards, images of Brutalist architecture, a snap of an edgy young girl spotted in an L.A. nightclub, a series of Polaroids of single-stem flowers pulled from the vast congratulatory bouquets she received when news broke of her appointment, and a handwritten note from an ex-boyfriend. When we duck into the florist Grace & Thorn on Hackney Road, a spriggy purple shamrock—otherwise known as a love plant—catches her eye. “Everything translates to a palette or a lipstick,” she says. “Whatever I look at, I see makeup.”

Pica's holiday work for Chanel. Photo: Instagram/@picalucia
Bold lips and brows by Pica in the October 2014 issue of Vogue.
Photographed by Mario Testino, October 2014
http://www.vogue.com/6444591/chanel-beauty-lucia-pica-creative-makeup-and-color-director/



| PREVIOUS CHANEL WORK |

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FASHIONISTA: http://fashionista.com/2014/12/lucia-pica-chanel-beauty - article by ELIZA BROOKE, DEC 15, 2014

VOGUE: http://www.vogue.com/13357692/lucia-pica-makeup-artist-chanel-beauty/- article by OCTOBER 6, 2015 2:00 AM by SARAH HARRIS

Spring/Summer 2016 Catwalk Inspirations/trends for Fashion

VOGUE
The Top 12 Runway Trends of Spring 2016

http://www.vogue.com/13361086/best-fashion-trends-spring-2016-runways/












Vogue posted 133 photos from different designers of the 12 Runway Trends of Spring 2016 and broken down the key trends putting them into look books displaying photographs of the runway looks  for this year and the designer that created the look. Multiple trends are created this year from off the shoulder clothing to cool street style. Each designer has uniquely created their lines fit to predicting S/S 16.


SPRING/SUMMER 2016 READY-TO-WEAR
Chanel


AIR travel has been a big topic of conversation in the fashion world of late. It seems a week hardly passes without some brand somewhere staging a megawatt show in a megawatt location. Fashion has become a traveling circus, if you will, and Chanel alone is famous for its global destinations, from Moscow to Seoul to Salzburg to Dallas; the house has presented a show in all of them. This year perhaps more than any other, editors and buyers have really clocked up the air miles, and so the idea of heading to an airport – again – as the show invitation indicates, might not be so appealing. But Chanel’s airport is the exception.

And so to Aeroport Paris Cambon, Karl Lagerfeld’s idea of how air travel should be: complete with airline lounges, Chanel branded luggage trollies, smiling staff stationed behind check-in desks, strapping luggage handlers, and signage directing models to gates (No. 5… naturally), Paris’ Grand Palais had been transformed into an airy, brightly-lit fully fledged airport, and pretty fancy it was too. Nothing like the shenanigans recently witnessed here, where bosses of Air France were mobbed and left shirtless. This was an altogether first class affair.

With no hurried travellers (although the information screen did announce a couple of delays) one by one models emerged, some wheeling along luggage, and occasionally stopping by check-in to collect travel documents like they had all the time in the world. Classic tweedy skirt suits, some with pencil skirts and dropped shoulder jackets, others with cropped three-quarter sleeve boucle jackets recalled a more glamorous time of air travel; they were the sort of ensembles one might put on in the hope of getting an upgrade, while a younger sportier gang donned track pants or knitted skirts and sweater combos - just the ticket for a comfortable long haul. Topped with baseball caps turned backwards and mirrored aviators to shield their faces, they called to mind the all too familiar pap shot of the hottest, newest celebrity as she emerges from a flight to the intrusion of flashbulbs.

There was lots of layering here: full skirts were fastened over trousers, sweaters were tied around waists and elsewhere knotted around the shoulders, almost as though the girls got stung at check in with excess baggage and instead of paying the fee, decided to pull out pieces and throw them on instead all in an effort to aid weight restrictions. The theme of air travel carried through, right down to the soles of shoes, where flat form sandals were lit up depicting the lights on a runway. Come fly with Chanel? Yes please.

Sarah Harris- http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ready-to-wear/chanel


















Chanel has a super mix up of colours this year with the collection containing many looks made up of a variety of colour schemes. The most popular seems to be the blue, white and red mix which is thoroughly throughout the collection. For S/S 16 Chanel create the usual tweed suit for women with the uses of the collections colour and a mix of tweed skirts, jackets and hats for the summer. Other looks a jumpers and mini skirts, flared skirts layer over trousers, tops and jackets with the look accessorized with large sunglasses, layers of silver chained necklaces and pearls, silver bracelets, headbands, caps, clutches and handbags with the mixture of shoes being sandals or silver and clear wedged heels. The hair was either loosely down or in a middle parting with pig tails at the back held together with a silver clasp between them.


Spring-Summer 2016 Ready-to-Wear CHANEL Collection


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2AC3kw4s84&index=8&list=PL5EE65D01F6E3FD33

Saturday, 19 March 2016

Spring/Summer 2016 Make-up and Hair Trends

Fashionisers

| Spring/ Summer 2016 Makeup Trends |

TRENDS | NOVEMBER 24, 2015
http://www.fashionisers.com/trends/spring-summer-2016-makeup-trends/


Here are 11 of my favourite Spring/ Summer 2016 Make-up Trends posted by Fashionisers showing the trends of this years and what look has been created by what designers on the runway. From 24 Spring/ Summer 2016 Makeup Trends I have chosen the top looks I really like of s/s 16 and below are my favourite 11 and who they are by.

#1: Candy Apple & Red Lipstick

Classic means red lipstick and guess which color is in for the new season? The color one needs to know for the 2016 looks is the snow white red apple hue, looking positively delectable with different finishes seen across the weeks, satin appearing at Dolce & Gabbana, patent lacquer appearing at Nina Ricci and the color going matte at DKNY. Applied precisely, looking spectacular, we see the hue appear at Jason Wu as well, along with Celine, Acne Studios, Giles, Oscar de la Renta, Topshop Unique, and many, many others. Nearly every designer had the perfect apple red lips.

Candy Apples might be red, but there are a few brighter hues seen on the runways, including that at Acne Studios, combined with a fresh face and amplified brows, inspirations taken from the 1980s. A single stroke of red appears at Veronique Branquinho, the rest of the lips left bare to the world, in tandem with the rest of the models’ visages.

Jason Wu uses double lipsticks for the perfect red color while leaving the rest of the face fully bare and youthful, a style that we expect many will be adopting for work in particular; easy yet attention-grabbing. Celine, Oscar de la Renta, Jason Wu, Nina Ricci and Victoria Beckham among many others brought in the bright reds against clear skin trend to life.




#6: Tea Stained Eyes

Beauty can take on a spooky turn, as we have seen with those ghost-y tea-stained eyes so soundly apparent on the Fashion Week runway shows we watched a few weeks back. The trend was set by Val Garland for NARS Cosmetics at Erdem, worn with glossy locks and a very old-fashioned effect to the visage.




#7: Blue Eye Makeup

Forget neutral colors. Honestly, the spring/ summer 2016 makeup trends give a makeover to the eyes bringing shades of blue in bold, bright and beautiful makeup looks. How to wear it though? It seems to be the question everyone keeps asking. In this case, honestly it can be worn however a lady wants. You can go smokey with sparkling navy inspired by Yves Klein, bring in the lovely cyan like at Monique Lhuillier or Missoni, or go straight on the lid with periwinkle like that seen at Boss.

Chanel really channels the blue dove grey right across the eyes in a mask of shadow, while Jonathan Saunders introduces the bold liners for the season. We see the bright blues appear at Nanette Lepore, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Diane von Furstenberg, with peeking bits of color appearing also at Marc Jacobs. Roksanda loves the ‘60s, what with the washes of blue shadow complementing the dual textured hair finish with the pretty crimps on the red tresses.




#8: Unevenly Applied Eyeshadows

No matter the color you decide to use on the eyes, it appears that for the spring and summer you really do not need to have it evenly applied, even the brightest of cyan hues. Missoni proves that with ease. Even the darker blues on the eyes have that unevenly applied appeal to them. Other shades include white and yellow primarily. There are smudges of bold white that appear at Zero + Maria Cornejo as well, while Giamba comes in with blue, pink, yellow and more.



#9: Mask of Shadow on the Eyes

Forget following the curves and the lines on your eyes. The spring/ summer 2016 makeup trends seem to allow for some artistic flexibility and the shadows created for the lids the last many years are currently taking over the whole of the brows, eyes and all around, including stretching over the bridge of the nose, thus creating a peculiar mask meant for a lady with fashion courage. Chanel loves the look and brings in the mask in greyish blue, while Jill Stuart keeps to only around the eyes with the pinks.

At Max Mara, this trend took an entirely different route and became this graphic shape transformation on the brows that was just as futuristic as Prada’s golden lips. The shadow covers the eyes in blue at Roksanda as well, which has us wondering as to the legitimacy of the trend. We just know that this is a beauty look that we will be seeing a lot of within the clubs day in and day out.



#10: Bold Liners


Liners are not a common tool to use of late it appears but they have not been fully discarded yet. On the contrary, many designers opt for the bold liner looks in different colors, including a gorgeous blue to match the models’ eyes as per Jonathan Saunders, the teal version making the brown of the eyes pop tremendously well at Sonia Rykiel. Tod’s blue liners go very well with the awesome cyan lashes, something we also see to a lesser effect at Mary Katrantzou. Bold and blue looks astonishingly pretty at Jenny Peckham as well, paired with the red lipstick everyone seems to love so much.

There are lines everywhere for the spring seasons. These include the standard eyeliners that one must master the waterlining and tightlining techniques in order to create perfectly, makeup specials seen at Mugler, BCBG, and Reem Acra, the winged cat eyes appearing at Tory Burch and Guy Laroche, as well as the bleached and redrawn brows as seen at Fendi.

Floating eyeliners seem to be an interesting bit to add to the already appealing new trend, making Celine’s beauty looks quite delectable. At Kate Gallagher, the lines make it up on one side of the brow and crisscross each other to create a line star, adding a tough girl effect to the already “don’t mess with this lady” look the model walks in with. At YDE though, the liner is gold and the ladies are dark, the graphic effect undeniable.


#11: Perfect Cat Eyes

Everyone knows that feline eyes are the sexiest looks around, which is possibly why this trend can never be considered so last year. On the contrary, it feels like it is constantly revamped and redone and has had new life breathed in every season of every year, particularly taking over the runways when it comes down to the spring/ summer 2016 makeup trends on Fashion Weeks around the world. At Diane von Furstenberg, the blue shadows unite with the catty look to create one darling exotic appeal. Soft cat eyes appeared with the winged ends on the classically beautiful Dolce & Gabbana collection runway.



#17: Bronzed Visage & Sun-Kissed Looks

There is just something so very summer-like in the color bronze, despite the innately autumn design of the hue. At Balmain this past Fashion Week for SS 2016, brown cream and bronzer with highlighter created a perfect combination for the perfect visage. We see this at Chloe, at Rag & Bone, at Alberta Ferretti with the gorgeous brows, Tommy Hilfiger with the beach-made sun kissed looks and the gentle bronze at Michael Kors and Isabel Marant.

Ralph Lauren’s girls looked to be with the perfect tan, while Rodarte brought in a certain standard of beauty that is entirely French. House of Holland makes the double effect of the tan look so very good, with the radiance to the skin and the dusty finish of bronzer sealing the effect this has on our own beauty standards.

When we get a good amount of Vitamin D, our skin has a whole different look to it, something that Alexander McQueen certainly tried to capture with the luminous skin and flushed cheeks. We see the look appear at Valentino as well, with Vanessa Seward making the sun kissed look appear quite enticing.


#19: Blush High on Cheekbones

Blush might not be the most common trend seen on the runways during the SS 2016 Fashion Week shows, but it certainly does appear and we are almost always left spellbound. It seems as if the high placement of the blush coloring on the cheekbones is the way to go, effectively bringing elegance to an ensemble you have thrown together.



#20: Radiant Skin

The fresh and radiant skin that has been trending on the runways is one of the best spring/ summer 2016 makeup trends we certainly love to see, as if the ladies have newly stepped out of the shower and used an apricot scrub to cleanse out the pores perfectly before covering up with a touch of powder for instant fabulous and matte. It was the ‘90s grunge that inspired the days worn eye makeup look combined with the radiance of the skin, the luminosity paired with winged cat eyes in a classic beauty as per Dolce & Gabbana.

Radiant skin appears on the ladies with minimal makeup as well, such as those appearing wearing the J.W. Anderson and David Koma collections. Dewy skin appears all over the face, one of the biggest summer 2016 makeup trends that takes over the likes of Marchesa, Bora Aksu, House of Holland, Michael Kors and Anna Sui.



#23: Use of Underliner


Eyeliner is generally used on top or on both lids, but when it is only at the bottom, or much bolder on that side of the eye, it is referred to as an underliner, something the ISSA collection loves to utilize it appears, courtesy of Duffy, Vidal Sassoon’s Global Ambassador. While not exactly a smokey eye and not quite the graphic eye look either, Atsuro Tayama adds strokes of black and gold that meet halfway across in a wilder, more fearless underlined look of beauty that is all glamour and perfection in its own regard. Tadashi Shoji, on the other hand, uses the look to amplify the dewy effect to the skin. The underliner effect is without a doubt one of the sexiest we have seen among all the spring/ summer 2016 makeup trends.



Cosmopolitan
| Spring/Summer 2016 hair and make-up trends |
http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/

CHANEL




CELINE

Braiding was back at Celine in the form of a polished ponytail by Redken's Guido. He used the brand's Braid Aid 03 product to create the clean braid and hold it in place. "Overall, the look feels quite tomboyish, but still super polished and modern," he says. The makeup was modern too with graphic floating eyeliner and a red lip, confirming the trend for Spring-red lipstick.


VICTORIA BECKHAM

The hair at Victoria Beckham by Redken Global Creative Director, Guido was a sophisticated, simple style full of shine. The orangy-red matte lipstick against dewy 'supermodel skin' came courtesy of lead makeup artist Pat McGrath. Hot!


HOUSE OF HOLLAND

St Tropez set the 'sand-swept' trend at House of Holland, with a matte tan replacing makeup. To achieve the look Jules Heptonstall, St Tropez Tanning Expert, prepped the models' skin with two coats of Instant Tan (in Light/Medium) and added a dusty finish with their Powder Bronzer Matte product.


DAVID KOMA

Andrew Gallimore, NARS UK Makeup Artist Ambassador, created this healthy beauty look with plenty of NARSskin Luminous Moisture Cream and Brow Gel. The side-parted holiday hair continues the trend for wet-look locks.



VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL


We love this view of the hairstyle at Vivienne Westwood, created by Mark Hampton, Global Ambassador for TONI&GUY Hair Products. He explained: "The key to the look is the sea-swept texture. The waves are natural and uneven, as if the hair has dried naturally in the sun. Sea Salt Texturising Spray gives you the perfect 'holiday' texture without the crunch of hair that's been damaged by the sun. My tip is to dry the product in with a diffuser to stop the hair looking too wet." Noted!


J.W. ANDERSON

Minimal makeup retuned to London Fashion Week at J.W. Anderson, where NARS products were used to achieve perfect skin and "bring back the brow bone". Will this spur-on the return of arches in place of straight, statement brows? It's baby steps.



PAUL SMITH

Stylist Tina Outen created this amazing twisted hairstyle armed with Bumble and bumble products. She split the hair into two equal sections and tonged the front section of the hair away from the face, brushed through to create a soft wave. Next she pulled both sections into ponytails just below the ears, twisted and criss-crossed the hair around in a figure of eight then pinned to secure.


Spring/Summer 2016 Hair Trends Mood Board

http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/beauty/hair-trends/2016/1/ss16-hair-looks-catwalk-trends-for-spring-summer/viewgallery/1496997

The above mood board I created for s/s 2016 hair trends are images selected from online glamour magazine and I selected one hair trend image from different catwalks and put them all into a mood board. The board consists of the use of tiaras, headbands, buzz cuts, pastel hair colours, plaits, chocker hair, sleek pony tails, short fringes and low buns. The trends throughout 2016 are seen through multiple designers on the catwalks with some designers creating similar styles to each other. The make-up completely ranges this year as each designer has created unique looks however the colour blue seems to be a huge hit of spring/summer 2016.