Karl Lagerfeld created his own perfect eco system this morning, transforming the Grand Palais into an energy efficient zone where a modernist wooden house was positioned in the middle of sprawling manicured lawn surrounded by trees and a lily pond. There were even swarms of midges circling which had show-goers speculating that Karl had even orchestrated that. Quite possibly. If you're wondering what saving energy has to do with a lavish production of this scale, and haute couture - a world where your own G4 is the preferred mode of transport - all I can offer is that these are clothes intended for a lifetime; the absolute antithesis of fast fashion.
It was a celebration of nature, which gave rise to a bucolic springtime wardrobe, comprising a lot of beige. “Gabrielle Chanel was the queen of beige,” declared Lagerfeld, whose palette ran from straw and sand to putty, taupe and hessian. The focus was on the Chanel suit, which featured neat fitted jackets with oval sleeves partnered with skirts of varying silhouettes, from strict and midi length pencils to full skirts and breezy, wide culottes.
Pleated dresses were feather fine, while even woolly, natural coloured tweed skirts – where fragments of shaved wood was woven in – looked lightweight, with hemlines splaying into full fringes. That nod to nature extended into night-time hours too, a dress had sleeves embroidered with feathered bees, others boasted wooden birds, and of course petal appliques abounded. But the most magnificent arrived with capes that were painted and embellished in twinkling rhinestones.
And so to the finishing touches: crystal dragonflies, bees, and other bugs posed as brooches, shoes took the shape of a satin two-tone ballet pump atop a cork wedge and waists were accessorised with a chicer version of a bum bag – Chanel called it a smartphone pouch, because even an eco-girl needs to stay connected. Oh, and a note on the timber set, the house promises to recycle it.
This years Haute Couture spring/summer 16 starred some beautiful neutral toned tweed suits and sparkling dresses. The 76 looks came out a large wooden box with doors and each model was kitted out with beautiful striking make-up, cat like eyes as the black liner lining over the top of the crease of the lid flicking out past the brow and a symmetrical line below the eye allowing the flicks to be parallel, the skin was flawless and slightly dewy and the lips kept natural. Makeup artist Tom Pecheux used elongated double strokes of liner to frame their eyes in seductive, feline fashion. The hair was super neat and sophisticated with the hair in a center parting or with a fringe and center parting and the back it slicked back and into a thick roll. Hairstylist Sam McKnight repeatedly compared the giant hair rolls models wore to croissants in his Instagram posts from the show. The hair inspiration was from the artist Picasso "The inspiration was a Picasso sculpture which Karl Lagerfeld showed me, with shaped hair in the back," McKnight tells Vogue UK. The whole look complimented every aspect of the styling from the hair to the make-up to the elegance throughout. The make-up is simple yet dramatic and the hair is sleek and sophisticated I think the look works really well together and could work very well in a editorial shoot and could bring elements of the haute couture spring/summer 2016 into one of my editorial shoots.
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